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Old 04-19-2010, 03:08 PM   #1
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Post D.I.Y Beadlock how to weld and install.

Well guys after searching around to see if anybody has done any D.I.Y beadlocks i didn't find any. So i decided i will do a write-up on how to weld and install weld on beadlocks for the average person who wants to tackle it on there own instead of having a shop do it.

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First Step,

You will want to prep your Rim by grinding off all the paint on the lip and surrounding area. IT's very simple to do. This is the lip you need to take the paint off of. I know it's the bottom but i already welded them all up.


I found that using a abrasive disc like this one works really well. You can pick them up at any hardware store of local auto parts store.



Second Step.

You will want to take the inner beadlock ring and run a grinder around the outside of the edge to make a chamfer for a better welding surface. I know this is not the inner ring but i already welded them all up. So here is a scrap piece of metal that i added a chamfer to so you can get the idea of what the edge should look like when your done with it.


Step Three

I found that a 5 gallon bucket makes the perfect stand for the rim.


STEP FOUR

Once you have the bucket down put the rim on the bucket. Make sure you put the front side facing up. Don't want to weld a beadlock onto the wrong side. Although you would have dual beadlocks when your done.

Now from what i have read is you want about a 1/16th to 1/8 inch gap all around the ring and the rim. that way it makes a even welding gap for you.
I used four clamps to hold down the inner ring till i could get it tacked down good enough that it wouldn't warp from the heat.


STEP FIVE
Start with a nice little tack on four spots on the rim. preferibly one at 12 ,3,6,9 o clock on the rim. Once you have tacked welded the rim. Go back around to the one you first started on. It should be cooled down enough you can reweld on it again. I ran a 2 inch bead in each spot where i first tacked the inner ring on.


STEP SIX

Once you have looped around the rim and welded your bigger beads you can start the actual real welding. I stepped up to about a five inch bead. Remeber to start at the first weld, That way it has time to cool before you weld in that spot again. I Went clockwise and welded around till i got to the beginning again.


STEP SEVEN

Once you have welded the next stages of welds you can eather do big weld or some more littler one and keep rotating around the rim till there connected. I found if you do lots of little welds that leaves gaps in the welds for air to leak through. YOu will want to overlap your welds if you can. Here is a example of a overlap i did.



Once your all finished with the welding if should look something like this.
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Old 04-19-2010, 03:18 PM   #2
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STEP EIGHT

Once your done welding it comes the leak down test, as i call it anyways.
ITSMEJOE Told me a good step on how to figure out if you have any leaks or not.

You will want to get yourself some Mineral spirits. It seems to seap through any little crack or creavis it can find.


STEP NINE

YOu will want to get yourself some chalk. I used my daughters sidewalk chalk since she leaves it out everywhere anyways.

YOu will want to coat the weld really good with the chalk so you can see if there is any leakage passed through.


STEP TEN

Once you have it coated in chalk. Pour some mineral spirits into the seam on the inside of the rim. Just enough to have a puddle. But not to much where it's seaping through the bolt holes.

If you have any leaks at all they will look something like this.


That is the only leak i found. It was from me not overlapping my weld good enough. You will want to grind it down and weld a new spot into it.

Once you think your done with finding all the leaks. It's time to clean it up. I used that abresive pad and cleaned up around the rim.

STEP ELEVEN

Now that the rim is all finished. I spray painted mine black. But first used a primer.




That is it on welding up the beadlock portion. I don't have my outers till tommorrow. I sent them off to the powdercoaters to get done. Once i get them back i will finish up the thread on how to bolt up and torq down the beadlocks. Now is when the fun stuff begins.
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Old 04-19-2010, 05:40 PM   #3
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Good write up so far Staff. I've wanting to do this also. I guess now, I'll have too. Rep added!!
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Old 04-19-2010, 05:49 PM   #4
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This should be a sticky or a How-To section should be made for these kinds of post. Rep Added.
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Old 04-19-2010, 05:59 PM   #5
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good write up for sure man, what kind of did you use?
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Old 04-19-2010, 08:29 PM   #6
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thats aout how i did mine....although i used 4 quarters between lock and wheel lip to space mine out perfectly,..and i used Kawasaki green for the outer rings


nice write up!!!
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg beadlocks 001_001.jpg (81.6 KB, 760 views)
File Type: jpg beadlocks 003.jpg (58.2 KB, 750 views)
File Type: jpg beadlocks 007.jpg (62.6 KB, 759 views)
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Old 04-19-2010, 08:49 PM   #7
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Good Job Staff!!
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:27 PM   #8
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nice write up now i just have to find out if they are legal on the road in ohio
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:02 PM   #9
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Well done staff

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Old 04-19-2010, 10:07 PM   #10
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bad ass staff !
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:26 PM   #11
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nice write up now i just have to find out if they are legal on the road in ohio
No sir.
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Old 04-19-2010, 11:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itsmejoe231 View Post
No sir.

yup,..what he said...that being said,..i drove mine all over without getting hassled

also,...if you measure like crazy when you mount the tire,...you can get it close to balanced,..i got mine good to about 55 mph without any issues,...or you can use bb's in the tire...but that would be a whole diff can of worms....
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:18 AM   #13
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I have heard of people using the air soft bb's on dd's

My thinking on BB's is that you have to get going fast enough for them to conform on the inside to make them balance so probably not good for a slow rock crawler...
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:22 AM   #14
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you want to grind you starts and stops so you can tie your weld into them...
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Old 04-20-2010, 08:45 AM   #15
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Out of curiosity, how does the air get past the original wheel bead? I see where you are "leak testing" the weld, but do not understand how air is getting to that area?
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Old 04-20-2010, 09:15 AM   #16
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Cool write up Staff
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:15 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldzuki View Post
Out of curiosity, how does the air get past the original wheel bead? I see where you are "leak testing" the weld, but do not understand how air is getting to that area?
the tire isnt going to use the stock bead area inside the wheel. it will get smashed between the two bealock plates now.
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:45 PM   #18
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Makes sense now! REP sent!
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Old 04-21-2010, 12:43 AM   #19
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So you didn't grind the welds down flush with the inside ring? That isn't going to make for a very smooth surface for the tire bead to mount (and seal) against, is it?
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:47 PM   #20
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You've blown your tire seal and its leaking fluid
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyhiranger View Post
So you didn't grind the welds down flush with the inside ring? That isn't going to make for a very smooth surface for the tire bead to mount (and seal) against, is it?
i didnt grind mine either,..and i never had a leak...although i kept the weld mostly inside of the lip...


prowler...just water
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:52 PM   #22
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Nice I want some Beadlocks.
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Old 04-25-2010, 08:30 PM   #23
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Ok it's time to finish the thread.

Once you have your rims all done being welded. you wanna get your tire that your going to use. Lay it on the ground with the side that is going to face out on the bottom.


You take your rim and angle it into the hole on the tire. Push hard and you can get it started to go in.




YOu will then need to get yourself some sort of tire prybar. I just used a crowbar. Didn't really need much force to get these tires to slide in. YOu want to start on one side and work to the middle it will eventually fall in the bead




Once you get it to fall in the bead like it shoud. It will look something like this.


Now here comes the fun part. Grab yourself a tray of some kind. that way all The nuts and bolts stay in one area.



Next thing to do is get a 3/8ths drill bit and clean and debur the holes of any powdercoat or leftover metal.



Next step you wanna do is get the tire and rim flipped over and Visually centered in the tire.

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Old 04-25-2010, 08:51 PM   #24
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Next step is to lay the ring down and make sure it's even with the holes. MIne had a cutout for the valve stem. so i had to line that up. If not then it's not a big deal.

There is a couple different techniques people could do for installing them on the rim.

I will show you how to do them with 4 first.
I took four bolts and put them on each side of the beadlock. Then tightened them down with a impact gun on the lowest setting.


Then take four more bolts and tighten them down same as you did the other four.


After that you put a bolt in every other hole. Put nuts and washers on them and tighten down in a sequence with one side other side.


Now take the last bolts and put them in all the empty holes. Tighten them down in sequence again. .


When torquing down the nuts and bolts go in a order. The first one i did. I just went around in a circle. It leaked had to take them back off and doit all again.
What i did was do five bolts and switch sides. then do five more on the other side. I found that way to work really good. NO leaks at all.

I put the tire on a bucket and aired it up. the weight of the tire put enough pressure on the tire to hold air on the rim. I filled them up to 20 pounds.

Check instructions or call the company you bought the beadlocks from for torque specs and how much air to run. If you over fill the tires they will crack the welds and break bolts.

Since mine were custom ones. I torqued them down to 20 foot pounds of torque.


When your done torquing the down. time to leak check them.

I angled the tire and poured water in the rim. And rolled the tire slowly and watched for leaks on both sides of the inner ring. If there's leaks coming from the inside of the inner ring means your weld is leaking. If it's leaking on the outer part of the inner ring. Means you have a leak between the tire and the ring. Easy just loosen them up and re tighten and torque them down. If the weld is leaking means you have to mark the spot were its leaking and take the rim back out. Grind the weld and re weld the spot.



Hope this thread helps you out and answers any questions you may have with doing them yourself.
If you have any questions feel free to ask them.
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:27 PM   #25
knunns
 
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great write up. I never thought about using mineral spirits to find leaks. another method I found that works well is coating the bead with soap and use the air gun on the back of the inner ring and looking for bubbles. It worked fairly well
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