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Axle Talk This section is for all your other axle talks, D44, D60, 14bolt, Ford 9" etc. If you have a write up please post it, if you have a axle question ask away.

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Old 10-31-2010, 08:52 PM   #1
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Brake Backing Plate ?

Ive been thinking of the mod to replace the rear backing plates with the earlier year model so you can remove the axle shaft without dc'ing the brakes. When you use these plates what keep the axle shaft and bearing from coming out of the housing? The original plates keep everything together. thanks
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:03 PM   #2
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:20 AM   #3
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The SJ410 conversion is worth it. As tempted as you may be to weld in the bolts, don't. Just fold the corner tabs over. You want a little slop in the bolts going through the axle.

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Old 11-01-2010, 12:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zorproducts View Post
The SJ410 conversion is worth it. As tempted as you may be to weld in the bolts, don't. Just fold the corner tabs over. You want a little slop in the bolts going through the axle.

MY

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It makes it an easy time pulling the axle. 10 minutes max.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:52 PM   #5
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The new plates hold the axle in the housing via the bearing...since the bearing is pressed on the axleshaft then the bearing retainer is pressed on the axleshaft and the plates are bolted onto the end of the axle housing.
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Old 11-13-2010, 06:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyhiranger View Post
The new plates hold the axle in the housing via the bearing...since the bearing is pressed on the axleshaft then the bearing retainer is pressed on the axleshaft and the plates are bolted onto the end of the axle housing.
??? idk never got instructions with my plates when i ordered mine so, instructions would be good and pics with would be even better.....
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Old 11-13-2010, 01:02 PM   #7
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SJ410 backing plate modification
This is a fairly popular modification to Suzuki Samurais which has several benefits. For one, it makes for less bulky spares by removing the large diameter original Samurai backing plate which is normally trapped between the end of the axle and the bearing. More importantly it makes axle replacement much simpler and quicker and eliminates the need to open the hydraulic brake system when having to remove the axle. In order to do this modification, it is necessary to remove the original Samurai backing plate from the axle. This will require cutting off the wheel bearing and removing the race and bearing retainer. We suggest using a die grinder and cut-off wheel. When the Samurai backing plate is removed, remove the 4 bolts by tapping them out with a hammer. Then the hole must be enlarged to 3". A 3" hole saw is the cleanest way of doing this but it can be done - if you are careful - with a torch, plasma, or sabre-saw. Now the bearing will be able to pass through the hole in the backing plate. The SJ410 backing plate can be used in two ways. By installing it on the axle first in its original form - before installing the new wheel bearing and retainer OR by cutting a notch out of one section giving it a horseshoe shape enabling it to fit OVER the axle (which is even more convenient) and it will still retain the axle and bearing equally as well. Install the 4 bolts that were removed from the Samurai backing plate into the SJ410 backing plate. There are tabs on the SJ410 backing plate which can be bent over the heads of the bolts in order to keep them in place. Now the backing plate can stay right with the axle housing and the axle can be pulled out through the hole. The 4 bolts pass right through the 4 holes in the original Samurai backing plate and into the axle housing flange. This sandwiches the original Samurai backing plate in place and now the axle and bearing are retained by the small SJ410 backing plate.
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Old 11-13-2010, 05:35 PM   #8
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http://www.roadlessgear.com/html/tec...tes/index.html
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:06 AM   #9
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Lightbulb Backing plate mod

I did this in a little unconventional way. Since my bearings were good I did not want to cut them off. I drilled 1/8" holes all the way around the backing plate just larger than the bearing. Then with a dremel type tool and a cutting tool installed I finshed the cuts. Pulled the axle through and cleaned up the backing plate with a small grinding tool in the dremel. It takes about one hour or so per axle but you do not spend the $ on new bearings if yours are good. Do the same for your spare axles. You could also do this with a plasma cutter if you are careful. Worked out great.
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67fastback View Post
??? idk never got instructions with my plates when i ordered mine so, instructions would be good and pics with would be even better.....
The 410 plate goes in place of your old backing plate. Simple as that.
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zukitintop View Post
I did this in a little unconventional way. Since my bearings were good I did not want to cut them off. I drilled 1/8" holes all the way around the backing plate just larger than the bearing. Then with a dremel type tool and a cutting tool installed I finshed the cuts. Pulled the axle through and cleaned up the backing plate with a small grinding tool in the dremel. It takes about one hour or so per axle but you do not spend the $ on new bearings if yours are good. Do the same for your spare axles. You could also do this with a plasma cutter if you are careful. Worked out great.
So what is holding your axle in? Since the backing plate is what holds the axle in the housing, to keep the axle from sliding out.
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyhiranger View Post
So what is holding your axle in? Since the backing plate is what holds the axle in the housing, to keep the axle from sliding out.
it's all explained here
http://www.roadlessgear.com/html/tec...tes/index.html
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billsbar View Post
Yes, I am quite familiar with the SJ410 backing plates and how they work...I run them on mine.
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:57 PM   #14
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well then I Guess I don't understand your question
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zukitintop View Post
I did this in a little unconventional way. Since my bearings were good I did not want to cut them off. I drilled 1/8" holes all the way around the backing plate just larger than the bearing. Then with a dremel type tool and a cutting tool installed I finshed the cuts. Pulled the axle through and cleaned up the backing plate with a small grinding tool in the dremel. It takes about one hour or so per axle but you do not spend the $ on new bearings if yours are good. Do the same for your spare axles. You could also do this with a plasma cutter if you are careful. Worked out great.
Ohhhh, I got what you did now. I was thinking you were talking about enlarging the center hole of the 410 plate, but you were talking about making the stock plate into a 410 type plate.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:08 AM   #16
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Stock Backing Plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyhiranger View Post
Ohhhh, I got what you did now. I was thinking you were talking about enlarging the center hole of the 410 plate, but you were talking about making the stock plate into a 410 type plate.

Yes I started with the stock Samurai backing plate for this mod. I purchased the 410 plate to hold the axle in.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zukitintop View Post
Yes I started with the stock Samurai backing plate for this mod. I purchased the 410 plate to hold the axle in.
Ok, now I got it.
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Old 11-17-2010, 12:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zorproducts View Post
The SJ410 conversion is worth it. As tempted as you may be to weld in the bolts, don't. Just fold the corner tabs over. You want a little slop in the bolts going through the axle.

MY

P.S. I always get my kits from http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com
Dang, I must be slow, but I was never temped to weld in the bolts. I did go to Fastenal and ordered longer 10.9 bolts and NyLocks which are a pain in the A** to get off but the longer bolts makes it easier to get it all lined up.
I was a bit leary of cutting the plates into a C shape being this is the only thing holding the axle in. I can certainly see the advantage if it would all hold together.
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
I was a bit leary of cutting the plates into a C shape being this is the only thing holding the axle in.
Cutting it does the job if you don't want to replace the bearings then it's cheap enough to keep some in stock ready for when you'll have to press new bearings on.
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Old 03-11-2011, 07:19 AM   #20
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Here is the way I made the hole bigger,,Made a steel plate so I had a 1/4" centering hole for my hole saw, Then on a vice on the drill press,, A perfect 3" hole,,
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Old 03-12-2011, 09:53 AM   #21
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Good thinking!
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:07 PM   #22
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Enlarging the backing plate hole.

I realize this is an old thread, but seeing as I just had to replace my seals and bearings last month,
I also did the backing plate modification.
This is how I enlarged the hole as I don't have a drill press at the moment.
I bolted the backing plate to a piece of plywood and clamped the plywood to the work bench with
the back of the backing plate down and the raised lip on the center hole up.



The center hole is extremely close to 2" diameter. I ran the 2" hole saw
through just to open the hole enough for the saw to turn freely.



The 2" hole saw will fit inside of the 3" hole saw on the same mandrel.
The 2" hole is used as the guide or pilot while cutting the 3" hole.
Use lots of oil on the center hole and the hole you are cutting.
I used a 3/8 " air drive drill and it easily cut through the backing plate.





The photo above shows the 3" hole with the removed piece above it.
The photo below shows the new plates installed on the axles with new bearings and keepers and the axles ready to reinstall.

If this helps someone else complete this task easier, then this post was
worth it. It took longer to figure out how to do it than it did to actually
do the job.

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Old 06-30-2015, 06:34 PM   #23
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Thanks for the info and pics.
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