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Old 04-27-2011, 08:22 PM   #1
jenyus
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2.3 Turbo diesel tin top build

i am retitling my build thread to make it more relevant to what im doing now. I started the diesel swap here:

http://www.zukikrawlers.ru/showthre...902#post633902

any progress i make will be posted here. the reason im doing this is so that other people doing a diesel swap can find my thread. when i was planning mine out all the other diesel build threads were a ton of help! thanks guys!
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:23 PM   #2
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got the motor mounted! still need to do the tranny mount an crossmember with that 2x4x120 piece of steel



top down view of passenger side mount



piece of steel holding up the tranny, itll be cut down into a cross member pretty soon but thats about where its going to sit. im thinking im going to also build a tc cradle that will line up those angles on the case and tranny.



passenter side mount again, under turbo



drillign new holes for peugeot master cylinder



big size difference, sammy on left, peugeot on right. i wasnt originally going to swap the mc's but this is going to make the sammy stop better with the extra weight and since the clutch is hydro, ill need a little bit more power as well.



peugeot mc left sammy mc right



the motor. the top left thing is the vacuum pump, but the motor didnt come with a bracket for it, so i have to try and figure out out. i guess the french dont believe in serpentine belts.



passenger side mount under turbo



peugeot shifter

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Old 04-27-2011, 08:23 PM   #3
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just enough room! i hope! i might end up needing to clearance the frame a little later on but for right now it works



driver side mount. dont you love flux core slag?



back of the motor. where the vicegrips are is where the firewall will start. so i should have plenty of extra room in the engine bay



back view of alternator clearance. the plastic shroud touches but thats it.



about an inch under the turbo



vacuum pump again. anyone have any creative ideas on making a bracket for it? it has a pivot point with a bolt through it. but it needs another adjustable point





just enough room! i hope! i might end up needing to clearance the frame a little later on but for right now it works



driver side mount. dont you love flux core slag?



back of the motor. where the vicegrips are is where the firewall will start. so i should have plenty of extra room in the engine bay



back view of alternator clearance. the plastic shroud touches but thats it.



about an inch under the turbo

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Old 04-27-2011, 08:24 PM   #4
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vacuum pump again. anyone have any creative ideas on making a bracket for it? it has a pivot point with a bolt through it. but it needs another adjustable point

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Old 04-27-2011, 11:03 PM   #5
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thats pretty cool. whats the power rating on the 2.3? and it may be me but i think you have some double post's ......
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Old 04-28-2011, 10:56 AM   #6
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haha yeah there might be a duplicate somewhere, hopefully no mods get mad at me!

its definitely not a powerhorse, it does about 81hp@4150RPM and about 133lb/ft of torque @2000 RPM but its better than the vw 1.6 turbo diesel which does about 68hp and 96lb/ft of torque.
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Old 04-28-2011, 05:05 PM   #7
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Nice those are good numbers. I'm sure you can turn some screws and get a little more power outof it.
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:09 PM   #8
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Lookin good!
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Old 05-17-2011, 02:44 PM   #9
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anyone have any creative ideas on mounting the vacuum pump? its got two threaded holes behind the pully, i was thinking of welding a nut to a piece of steel and bolting it on the pump and then running a bolt through a piece of angle iron attached to another bolt. that way i can tighten the bolt through the nut and adjust it that way. does that make sense?
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Old 05-17-2011, 04:40 PM   #10
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It'd be a great help if you posted a bunch of pics of both the pump and that side of the block and head for perspective on a possible solution. I doubt many are familiar with that engine so it's hard to picture the possibilities.

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Old 05-17-2011, 04:42 PM   #11
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sure thing! you can see what im talking about in the last picture, but ill try to get some more detailed pics
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Old 05-31-2011, 01:01 PM   #12
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well the peugeot manual referred to the vacuum pump as a brake vacuum pump so im just not gonna worry about it if its just for the old brakes.

i also decided to use the sammy power booster but im still going to try and use the bigger master cylinder. the bores are the exact same width, the peugeot one is just a little bit longer.

i also got my fuel pump in, now it just needs to be wired in. i also built my crossmember/tc mount and mounted my clutch master cylinder ill get pics up if i ever remember to bring my camera from home.

this is the essentials left to d:
-hydro clutch line
-weld tranny mount/crossmember to frame
-build new tc cradle
-get intermediate shaft made
-fuel lines
-vacuum lines
-rear driveshaft (i think im going to try and use sammy fronts all around, they're cheap and easy to come by)
-power steering lines
-extend frame in front to mount IFS box
-mount IFS box
-Drill out pitman arm for heim joint or tie rod end, still not sure which im going to use.
-electrical
-deal with DMV

and then a loooong list of other things that should be done, but arent essential

im itchin to get this thing done so that i can start wheelin! i worked out a deal with a local 4x4 shop, hes hooking me up with a full DOM exocage to my specs and im building him a new website. but i gotta get the stuff on my end down so i can take it down to him to get all that done!
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Old 06-01-2011, 03:41 PM   #13
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Without the vacuum assist, applying the brakes will feel like standing on a stack of bricks. There has to be an easy solution to the bracket for the pump - or at least we can reasonably conclude that the effort applied in designing the bracket solution will pale in comparison to using the brakes without the pump.

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Old 06-01-2011, 04:08 PM   #14
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you might look into a small 12 volt vac. pump also.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VPilot View Post
Without the vacuum assist, applying the brakes will feel like standing on a stack of bricks. There has to be an easy solution to the bracket for the pump - or at least we can reasonably conclude that the effort applied in designing the bracket solution will pale in comparison to using the brakes without the pump.

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so are you saying that the motor doesn't put out as much vacuum pressure as say the sammy motor does and so it needs the vacuum pump? i didn't think about it that way

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you might look into a small 12 volt vac. pump also.
good idea, mounting the belt driven pump will be a pain plus ill lose desperately needed hood clearance
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:50 PM   #16
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The diesel motor doesn't create vacuum so it requires a pump of some kind. My Powerstroke uses an electric vac pump, my Cummins has one that runs off the cam gear. My VW has one that runs off the oil pump shaft. Yours runs off a seperate belt. You need to mount it or go with an elec one of some sort or deal with the pile of brick effect.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:57 PM   #17
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oh okay awesome thanks guys! i had no idea!
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:59 PM   #18
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do you think this would work? do i need to worry about ones that might have too much or too little pressure? this ones for a ford diesel
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...item35b00d479e
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Old 06-01-2011, 06:36 PM   #19
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compare the specs of it to the one you have. that would be easier to deal with vs the belt driven pump
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:14 AM   #20
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Looks like the one on my '99 Powerstroke. I honestly don't know but would think it should work fine.
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Old 06-02-2011, 02:08 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenyus View Post
this is the essentials left to d:
-hydro clutch line
-weld tranny mount/crossmember to frame
-build new tc cradle
-get intermediate shaft made
-fuel lines
-vacuum lines
-rear driveshaft (i think im going to try and use sammy fronts all around, they're cheap and easy to come by)
-power steering lines
-extend frame in front to mount IFS box
-mount IFS box
-Drill out pitman arm for heim joint or tie rod end, still not sure which im going to use.
-electrical
-deal with DMV
I hope I don't sound too much like the rain on a parade but I just noticed you're in California and also read your "to do" list -in particular the last item - Deal with DMV. I guess it's better to be safe than sorry and to ask this now before you pass the point of no return.

Do you plan to drive this on pavement once the swap is complete? The reason I ask is that from what I've learned, in California the main prerequisite for engine swapping is that the replacement engine must be the same year or newer than the original engine and they do check that. I saw in your earlier thread that this engine is out of an 81 Peugot. So if your goal is to register as a smog-exempt street-legal diesel, you run a mighty risk of doing a lot of work for nothing. Of course if you plan to register the Samurai for off-road use only (green sticker) then it's full steam ahead.

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Old 06-02-2011, 10:08 PM   #22
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yeah, i am aware of that, so im hoping they dont need any paperwork from the motor, cuz if they do, i wont have it. the sammy currently has a salvage title as well and needs to pass a brake and lamp inspection before it goes on the road. so i might have some hoops i need to jump through to get it on the street, but the people at my DMV are retarded and don't know anything about the diesel swaps and all that. so im crossing my fingers, worst case scenario is i do some creative smogging with my buddies samurai and my VIN and keep it registered as a gas motor. in our county you smog when you sell and thats it
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Old 07-05-2011, 11:45 PM   #23
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Your build is startin to come around man. I saw you had a few questions in another thread about the glownplug relay and tach wiring. In my swap I'm running both harnesses, the samurai controls all the accessories and the isuzu is for the glow plug relay. I even kept the ignition and put it on the other side of the column. If your puegot came from the factory with a tach you can just run an aftermarket one off the harness also. How's your intermediate shaft lookin?
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:51 PM   #24
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cool thanks, i dont have the peugeot harness unfortunately. my wife got tired of seeing it in the yard and told me to get rid of it and i forgot to grab the harness. my intermediate shaft looks like crap, just running one u joint from the tranny output slip, i want to have a better one made thatll have 2 u joints in it but i dont want to throw down the cash for the machining costs right now.
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:18 PM   #25
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alright since you tossed your glow plug relay you will have to do a push button relay going into your glow plug bus bar (piece of steel connecting all your glow plugs). Basically it will be a positive wire directly off the battery into the push button switch and out to your bus bar. You'll press her and hold it for a few seconds and it'll get that bus bar hot which means your plugs are heating. Once their heated up turn over your engine and she should fire, if not then press and hold for a couple more seconds while you crank her til it does. Bad thing about the manual glow plug relay is that you burn up plugs faster that way.

If the tach is really necessary (and the puegot had one stock) then just find the wire and splice into it with an aftermarket tach. Should be somewhere on the injector pump. If not then you'll have to check the puegot forums for how those guys are putting tachs on non-tach diesels.

Definitely go with 2 U joints for the intermediate. It'll make it a whole hell of alot easier to line everything up and leave room for a little imperfection. I'd probably just do puegot slip yoke to shortened puegot drive shaft to puegot flange and then drill your t-case flange to match that pattern.
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